Discovering Greece

Since my first visit to Greece in 1987 I've been drawn to her shores countless times to escape from unpredictable British summers and the unrelenting pace of working life in London. For me, that Greek pureness of light and warmth has a therapeutic effect; instantly calming the soul and lifting the spirits. I still get a real sense of a magic that kind of seeps from the ancient landscape, so steeped in myth and history. Being in Greece, exploring it's breathtaking terrain gives me a thirst and curiosity for deeper knowledge and understanding of its tumultuous past. I wonder if it is that very nature of Greece's history that makes the country so alluring... like the intense creativity and imagination that comes from the tormented artist.
My very first Greek adventure was on the pine-clad, Saronic island of Spetses, the inspiration for one of my favourite novels, The Magus by John Fowles. For several years I spent summer holidays there, going off periodically to explore other islands. Spetses had an air of faded grandeur and a rich nautical history that, added to the attraction of some relatively low key nightlife and a few great beaches, provided the perfect holiday setting.
We travelled to Spetses sometimes by coach from Athens to the nearby mainland village of Costa (where a small boat took us across to Spetses Town); more often from Piraeus by Flying Dolphin. There were very few cars (a couple of taxis and a bus) on the island so our usual mode of transport was either the bus, horse and cart or, when funds allowed, a hired moped. Once or twice we hired a motorboat to explore the island's unspoilt coastline. Most evenings we walked between Spetses Town and the affluent Old Harbour sampling the popular bars, ouzeries and restaurants along the way.
Spetses was (and I'm sure still is) lazily tranquil by day; lively and bustling at night, with a mix of British tourists, weekending Athenians and rich yacht owners that gave it a relaxed, slightly Riviera atmosphere. It's main town is charming and elegant; dotted with imposing 200 year old mansions and pebble courtyards, built by wealthy merchants and sea captains during it's heyday as an important maritime trading and shipbuilding centre. Although well guarded from curious eyes by high stucco walls the beautiful interiors of those houses can be seen by all on the pages of glossy coffee table books.
I have fantastic memories of my many visits to Spetses. First tastes of octopus, ouzo on ice, Greek rosé wine, greek salad; feeling sad for all the stray cats; the clear blue sea, topless sunbathing, super yachts, all night dancing, charming whitewashed houses with turquoise gates and draped bourgainvillea. Perfect days! My dream then was to buy my own little house on the island (little chance of that though given my then lowly first-job salary) and I returned each time to the UK window shopping and scouring for Greek estate agents from afar.

Photos from hinitser.com